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Cashmere lana

The production chain of the fine cashmere wool is based on extremely accurate and meticulous processes, the result of centuries of experience in the sector. Even the first phases require expertise and delicacy to separate the different animal hairs without damaging the fine fibres of the cashmere wool. Subsequently spinning and drawing allow the cocoons to be transformed into yarns of increasingly higher quality, thanks to the development of increasingly refined techniques over time.

 

Finally, weaving, knitting and packaging also involve manual processes to enhance the unique performance of cashmere. Centuries of tradition have allowed us to perfect each individual production phase, in order to create garments capable of providing unparalleled softness and comfort. Cashmere wool is thus the fruit of expert savoir-faire handed down from generation to generation, which still makes it one of the most prized fabrics in the world.
 

Cashmere wool: the first steps in processing

The processing of the fine cashmere wool has centuries-old origins, dating back to the early days of cashmere goat farming in Central Asia. Once the cashmere goat is sheared, its soft fleece is made up of various types of hair: longer and thinner fibres that make up the real cashmere and shorter and thicker guard hairs.

 

To obtain the fine pure cashmere fibre, it is necessary to manually separate it from the other hairs, which means it must be carded. The workers, equipped with special combs, delicately comb and card the fleece to remove the short guard hairs from the long fibres.

 

This meticulous work is carried out on the tippino, a cylindrical support covered with a layer of wool. As the fibres are unravelled, they gather on the tippin, forming the first cocoons of yarn.

 

This operation requires skill and patience to avoid damaging the precious cashmere fibres, which are as thin as a tenth of a millimetre. Only at the end of this fundamental separation phase is it possible to acquire the pure cashmere wool to be sent for the subsequent spinning processes.

 

After this phase, the fleece is subjected to carding, an extremely delicate mechanical process to completely untangle the cashmere fibres. The fleece is passed between two rollers covered with tiny metal punches arranged in a herringbone pattern. The rollers, rotating in opposite directions, “comb” the fibres, stretching them out in parallel and eliminating knots and impurities. As the rollers get closer to each other, the fibres are unravelled more and more finely. The material emerging from the rollers thus has the appearance of a soft cloud of yarn, composed of very thin parallel spindles of fibers oriented in the same direction.

 

It is then accumulated in special baskets, where the flakes are compacted to form cocoons of carded yarn, also called “pollens”. These constitute the raw material for the subsequent spinning, through which the first continuous threads of pure cashmere wool will be obtained. Only later did the actual spinning arrive, originally carried out using the hand spinning machine to produce the first threads.

 

With the adoption of industrial techniques the entire process has been optimized without distorting the quality of the final product. Even today in Italy, home of best italian’cashmere, many companies choose cutting-edge equipment but maintain a partially artisanal manufacturing process to enhance the excellent performance of this noble fiber.

 

Cashmere wool: combing, spinning and drawing

At this point, the fine cashmere wool is ready for the subsequent spinning and drawing phases. In spinning, the cocoons are stretched and lengthened by special threads to produce the first continuous threads. These are then subjected to drawing, a structuring and reinforcement process that occurs by passing them through increasingly smaller caliber spinnerets. This makes the thread smooth, compact and homogeneous.

 

At this point, weaving or knitting begins. For high fashion, hand-crafted workmanship is preferred, which enhances the excellence of the yarns. This is how soft scuffs, velvets or wonderful cashmere sweaters for women are born, with comfort andunparalleled refinement.

 

Thanks to the mastery of expert human hands, a unique item like cashmere offers unique sensory emotions that make these garments timeless over time.

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