Tessuto cashmere

Cashmere is universally recognized as one of the most valuable and sought-after fabrics in the fashion world. This is justified by several intrinsic factors of this precious fiber, which also determine its higher final price compared to other types of textiles.


First of all, cashmere stands out for the delicacy and unique thinness of its fibers, with an average diameter of less than 15 microns. This microstructure gives it exceptional thermoregulatory and tactile properties, keeping the body warm in winter and dry all year round.


Furthermore, the amount of raw cashmere obtainable annually from each goat is extremely limited, only 300-500g, which makes this raw material incredibly scarce. Added to this are the rigorous quality standards adopted by prestigious brands, which select only the thinnest fibers through complex sieving processes.


Despite the premium price, Istat data confirm that the global cashmere market is recording constant growth, with an estimated turnover of over 5 billion dollars per year. In Italy, the leading European producer of luxury yarns, the sector is worth 400 million and employs over 5,000 people. These numbers demonstrate how, thanks to its intrinsic peculiarities, cashmere continues to fascinate more and more consumers willing to invest in its unparalleled quality, a guarantee of comfort and style destined to last over time.


Cashmere fabric: Harvesting, selection of fibers, quality and fineness

Cashmere tends to have significantly higher costs than other types of wool due to various factors related to both production and processing of the fibers.


The subsequent processing phases also involve greater costs. For cashmere Italia, a strict selection of the fibers is carried out to obtain yarns with an average diameter of less than 15 microns, a standard that requires complex sifting phases. In fact, the production of high-quality cashmere yarns involves complex selection and sifting phases of the raw fibers. After shearing, the fibers are initially subjected to washing and combing to untangle the tufts and separate the thicker hairs (guard hair) from the actual cashmere (down hair).

This is followed by an initial mechanical sieving that uses a series of septa with calibrated diameter meshes to select the ultra-fine fibers, generally less than 30 microns. A further sieving, carried out through precisely perforated synthetic membranes, then allows the collection of fibres with a diameter of less than 15 microns, the standard required for premium yarns.


These phases, which exploit advanced filtering technologies, are necessary to obtain homogeneous yarns free from impurities, an aspect that distinguishes high-end cashmere produced by established companies in our country. Furthermore, the extreme thinness of cashmere fibres increases their perishability, therefore the processes require great care and attention to preserve their quality and uniformity. These high production standards, together with the value of the cashmere brand, are understandably reflected in the final price of the garments.


However, the higher costs are balanced by the excellent thermal, tactile and aesthetic performances of cashmere, qualities that fully justify the price even in terms of long-term durability.


Cashmere woven: the raw material produced annually

The raw cashmere available annually is one of the main causes of its high cost compared to other wools. Estimates conducted by experts in the sector indicate that the average annual production of raw cashmere for a single cashmere goat is around 300-500 grams. This quantity is significantly lower than other sheep and goat species, for example sheep can provide around 5 kg of raw wool per shearing.


Even considering the large-scale farms present in countries such as China and Mongolia, the total raw cashmere produced each year globally does not exceed 12,000-15,000 tons.


There are several factors that influence the reduced productive capacity of cashmere goats, including their natural habitat characterized by cold temperatures, which limits their fertility, and their physical constitution oriented towards agility rather than size.


Therefore, the small annual quantity of raw cashmere makes this precious raw material particularly scarce. Even the most renowned pItalian producers who produce best italian’cashmere, must necessarily apply higher prices that reflect the nature of the product as a rare commodity.


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